The opening of Cosme, chef Enrique Olvera's first restaurant outside of Mexico, signaled a renaissance in Mexican cuisine not only in the United States but in New York City as well, where Mexican food has earned a reputation for being inferior compared to the rest of the nation. Chefs and food critics sang praises of Mr. Olvera's unique interpretation of Mexican food, but the reception for Cosme by foodies has been surprisingly muted. Is it because it's Mexican food? Or is it because the food can be a bit too cerebral? Or is it because it's another out-of-town chef trying to conquer the Big Apple? Whatever the reason, Cosme is worth visiting, because Mr. Olvera is doing God's work there. The food may not always hit the mark, but when it does, it is just fantastic.