Since he departed A Voce five years ago, chef Andrew Carmellini has found much success using his experiences traveling around the country and in Europe to establish restaurants that offer what I'd like to call "haute comfort food": enhanced versions of cherished dishes from one's childhood. Locanda Verde is known for its family style Italian food; The Dutch serves up American rustic cuisine. Even the desserts are supposed to dredge up memories of happier and simpler times. However, as interesting and delicious as the dishes are, I cannot help but wonder where the talented chef that won James Beard Foundation awards and Michelin stars has gone. Fortunately, I saw glimpses of this chef at Lafayette, Mr. Carmellini's newest venture in NoHo.