SHO Shaun Hergatt

I rarely venture into the Financial District: there are few if any attractions there to sustain my interest, and the lack of decent street parking and navigable streets is a further deterrent. Thus, when my friend suggested that I try out SHO at Setai House, I had my misgivings. Unfortunately, my trip to the restaurant was an utter disaster: I mistakenly turned left onto the Brooklyn Battery Tunnel, and by the time I drove back into Manhattan, I was ready to give up and go back home. Thankfully, the hostesses at the restaurant stayed with me on the phone as they gradually guided me to Broad Street, and I finally arrived a little worse for wear but ready to enjoy the evening.

I was ushered into the bar while my table was being prepared. The bar is located in a larger seating area consisting of banquettes and small tables. The motif is decidedly Asian -- black lacquer wood, Japanese-inspired lighting fixtures, Tibetan fabrics and tapestries -- but the walls were also festooned with African metal jewelry and implements, which were framed and hung in various parts of the restaurant. The hallway leading to the main dining area is lined with glass cabinets encasing the various wines served at the restaurant; the effect was stunning. The dining area is bathed in red, gold and mahogany; it serves as a beautiful contrast to the kitchen found at the far end of the room, which, although decidedly utilitarian, is cleverly framed by glass doors, that allow diners to observe the chefs and line cooks as they labored over the food.

The meal started with a trio of canapes: a duck breast terrine topped with pickled vegetables; a crispy phyllo "cigar" filled with salmon mousse and topped with caviar; and a crepe purse containing creme fraiche, sitting on a lime slice and topped with gold leaf. The first two canapes bursted with

earthy flavors, while the crepe cleansed the palate in preparation for the next course. The amuse bouche was cold poached shrimp with yuzu gelee, cherry tomato and creme fraiche: simple yet full of flavor, and beautifully presented in a scallop shell lying on a bed of sea salt. My first appetizer was a recommendation by a friend: The Golden Egg, which is a slow poached egg with cauliflower puree and topped with gold leaf and caviar. The egg was perfectly poached, and the cauliflower puree was savory and a wonderful accompaniment to the egg. The second appetizer was zucchini blossoms filled with minced blue prawns and scallop mousse, then deep-fried. The plate was adorned with two small scoops of tomato mousse and sauteed pak choy.

This was delicious: the crispy blossoms paired well with the creamy mousse and prawns, and the tomato mousse added hints acidity and sweetness. For the main course, I started with the slow poached halibut with silky celeriac sauce with black truffles, parmesan foam and blanched white asparagus spears; I paired this with a wonderful white Burgundy wine, whose nuttiness complemented the dish well. The halibut was delicate and flaky, and the celeriac sauce and parmesan foam added a lot of flavor to the dish. However, I felt that the intense flavors of the sauce, foam and white asparagus overwhelmed the delicate halibut. I also tried the rabbit tenderloin rolled in cinnamon and cocoa, which was braised and served with parsnip roesti and natural sauce. The rabbit was beautifully cooked if a bit bland; thankfully, the sauce was subtle but able to provide enough flavor to the meat. I paired the rabbit with a lovely Lirac, which was smooth and did not overpower the meat. Following the main courses, a pre-dessert of cantaloupe macaroons and pistachio financiers topped with creme fraiche and raspberry halves. Dessert was a rhubarb tart: it came out deconstructed, with a poached rhubarb stalk on top of a crunchy crust, ginger cremeux and lychee sorbet. The tartness of the rhubarb was complemented by the subtle spiciness of the cremeux and the creaminess of the sorbet, and it paired well with a glass of Miralva moscatel, with its hints of citrus and rose. To end the meal, there were salty caramel chocolate truffles and apricot-ginger jelly cubes. I took a shine to the truffles: the saltiness of the caramel worked well with the sweetness and bitterness of the chocolate; before I left, the staff was kind enough to send me home with a box of the truffles to enjoy at home.

Clockwise, from upper left: Melon macaroons and pistachio financiers; rhubarb tart; and salty caramel truffles

The service was almost flawless: I particularly enjoyed conversing with my female server and the wine director, who made many helpful suggestions with the wine and food. However, I felt that the service was almost intrusive at times: servers would interrupt while I was eating or while I answered my cell phone. Chef Hergatt came out of the kitchen often to gladhand the diners; he was kind enough to visit my table twice to compliment me on my meal selections, and to listen to my comments regarding the food.

I truly enjoyed my dining experience at SHO (which I discovered is short for Shaun Hergatt), but when I do return for a repeat engagement, I may just leave the car home and take the subway!